Thai designers fly the flag during Bangkok Couture Week

 Three Thai couturiers showcased a variety of styles and inspirations during the inaugural Siam Paragon International Couture Fashion Week in Bangkok, Sep 27-30.

Flynow's Chamnan Pakdeesuk offered a highly structured and entirely black collection that had some Thierry Mugler references in the sharply tailored sleeves of body-fitting dresses. The wearer’s shape is accentuated in the right places with strategically placed piping and cut outs. As the models tottered on impossibly high heels, walking almost like robots, it was easy to get distracted from the beautiful craftsmanship of the outfits that relied on the cutting skills of the designer to make an impact more than the use of elaborate fabrics.

Sirichai Daharanont of Theatre looked back in history and offered a collection inspired by the silhouettes of the Medieval and French Renaissance periods with a touch of Spanish Inquisition. After opening with austere black monkish cassocks, he sent his models down the runway wearing long shimmering Moorish tunics, richly embroidered jackets worn with short puffy breeches, doublets and hose, and a few fluid chiffon gowns in a simple palette of white, black, silver, and gold. The historic interpretation was rather literal but the extensive use of opulent fabrics — embroidered lace and lamé brocade – together with the tailored constructions gave the collection a definite couture feel.

Nagara Sambandaraksa for Nagara went in the opposite direction, presenting a hip, street orientated collection titled “Techno Dragon.” To the heavy beats of techno music, models sporting fluorescent lipsticks and torsade head pieces took to the catwalk with street-style attitude, wearing gabby shorts or loose trousers with more fitted jackets. The women’s wear had a loose fit with dresses in silk and chiffon falling straight to the floor. But beyond the sporty street-look, great attention was given to detailing as in the fish scale pattern on black trousers or the crystal embroideries at the hem of a dress. Bold neon colors (pink, orange, green) could be found in accessories like ankle and wrist warmers or belts.

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